Gen III's Virtual Flea Market

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1927 Ford TT Dump Truck. Truck is 95% complete and running. Has good tires,radiator recore,rebuilt 2 speed rear, roof. Needs some TLC and a new home. Located in NY on the Hudson River 40 miles south of Albany. TOOO many Toys Asking 5500. Thanks for looking Mike
Mike DeFelice <mdefelice@hvc.rr.com>
845-853-2563, NY USA

Hello,

Here's the deal. The truck started life as a '22. It was 'rebuilt' in southern Indiana in the late 80's, but that wasn't a serious rebuild. It was driven for a while to cart kids around a farm, or so I was told, and eventually sat for quite some time, as when it arrived here it was pretty much a giant hornets nest. I got it a year ago on eBay and have had to rebuild or replace just about everything since, which I had not anticipated. Everything I put in has been thoroughly cleaned and painted before install. I did it all on the budget I had, which means none of the parts are minty, but all of them are solid and correct and in good shape. This truck was meant to be driven and enjoyed, not shown as a show piece. Much of the hands on/real world advice I got rebuilding it came from an old guy that used to have these 'back in the day' and was a whizz at making them go.

Here are some details as best as I can remember what all is out there in the garage. There are about a thousand things I did or bought for it, so if I miss anything please forgive me!

Engine: The original 1922 block was cracked, so the engine is a 1926 block, rebuilt using parts from a combination of three engines, with good babbits and new cam bearings, rings, valves, lifters, and valve springs. There are extra oiling holes drilled into the skirts of the pistons, which was done sometime in it's life - I didn't do it, but would have. I put a new large spout oiling tube (internal in it as well, so oiling in the engine will not be a problem. the block was thoroughly cleaned before being rebuilt and I have a gallon of the polly stuff to run in the first batch of water to help line the water jackets and improve cooling. I have a rebuilt radiator for it that was used for about 6 months while the guy had another done for his car (he needed a tall and this is a short), so we know the radiatior is solid and good and does not leak. I have all new hoses for it as well as a new fan belt and all needed to rebuild the fan (not done yet). New oil pet cock and sight guage (not installed yet). Front timer seal is neoprene to prevent leakage. Have a brand new carb for it. Have a generator that needs a rebuild and have all the parts to do it, just needs to be done. Starter rebuilt and installed. I have the True Fire system for the ignition and completely rebuilt the coil box already. Have a full new wiring harness for it (not in yet). Have a new exhaust for it, still in the box

Tranny: Completely rebuilt last year by Ron's in Ohio and never run yet, so freash as can be. Since I have the True Fire system, I had the mag stuff eliminated from the flywheel (thus lightening the engine/tranny considerably for improved performance) and had oil slingers installed instead for better oiling of the rear half of the engine and the tranny. I have new Kevlar bands in it (not yet adjusted) and a new U-joint. The pedals have nice rubber boots on them like when new and have been painted! I have a new used e-brake handle and set up, but it is not yet painted and installed. U-joint was well greased at install, and the original brass cups are ready to accept more grease when needed. Currently the truck does not roll free as I have never been able to find neutral as yet.

Frame, front and rear end: The frame was cleaned and painted, with a new front cross member installed. The front end was completely rebuilt and painted and is solid - just needs grease. The front wheels have been replenished, painted and have new tires and tubes on them, and new bearings. The steering arm in not on as I was working on getting the steering colmn done when it got cold and I stopped for the winter. Have everything to finish the column, just needs to be done and installed. The steering wheel is cleaned and the middle painted nice. The rim has a crack in it, but otherwise is fine. On sound advice from 'my T man' I have done nothing to the rear end until I had it going and could get a good listen to it. All I did was clean it and paint it. One side is missing the emergency brake shoes, but the other side has good ones. I have new e-brake rods and clips and holders ready for install. The truck also comes with a spare rear end! thh rear wheels are not standard size but are acceptable (21 inch instead of 20 inch). They have been refurbished and painted and have second NOS tires on them right now with new tubes. I have a second set of new rear tires for the truck and will put them on for you if you want (talk to me about that first though). Both front and back wheels have new lug bolts and nuts.

The body and metal: The front fenders are in good shape, but have a few dents hammer out. I found the rare front fender cross brace for it, just needs paint. There is a good truck running board on the drivers side and on the passenger side (because it is supposed to be military) there is a longer car board in order to accept the tool box (have an original wood one, needs refurbishment) and gas can (have). Also have a set of tire chains and tools for the tool box. Fenders and boards are painted and installed. Hood is fantastic and have the leather corners (not yet installed). Radiator shell is cleaned and painted and has anti rattle felt. Have both the 1918 and 1922 style under radiator flashing for it to choose from. The headlights are all fixed up with new bulbs and lenses, but one needs to have the rod bent back a little as it is aimed down a tad too far. The reflector on one is bright and on the other is dull, and niether internal 'brightening adjuster' works. (Who cares? How much night driving are you going to do really?) Hood shelves are new and unpainted as yet, but with all new wood and hardware holding them on. New radiator mounting hardware and new hood clip hardware (installed). Firewall is wood and custom made from original plans from birch, just like original, painted and installed on new supports. Have the 1919 drip rail and anti rattle felt (both installed) with new rear hood support. have a new hood to radiator shell rod. Have an original oil can and a repop holder, with all the correct nomenclature tag and carb control rods and face plates - none installed. Have new floorboards for it from Langs, but not in. None of the cab work has been done as the military truck had no real cab, however I was considering revising this and had not yet decided. Fuel tank is a newer used one, have not rebuilt the sediment bowl yet, have a new fuel line for it (not installed). Tank straps are there and ready to go in. I have an original tank stick guage too. The rear box is done, and built in a local National Guard depot built style - meaning that much of the metal work is meant to look home made or scrounged from the local hardware store. It turned out pretty nice. I have a first coat of paint on the inside but never finished painting the box. The whole of the metal work had been painted black, as from the factory, and was then to have military olive drab applied over that

Extras: I have all the hardware for an electric brake light; two repop front oil lamps; two original front oil lamps (okay condition); two minty rear oil lamps; photos of examples I was copying military style from; photos of where some of the parts came from, what the thing looked like in 1985, what it looked like when I got it; some manuals and such; a three flag holder gizmo for the radiator neck with three American flags on it; some other bits and pieces...

As you can see, this thing just needs completion. Once done, it will be like a brand new truck almost and something to really be proud of. Since the cab is not done, a guy can do just abpout anything you want with it as well. There is very little to buy for it now, just the fun of getting it together. It is very close to starting up. I hate to get rid of it after a year of fanatical work on it, but I will not have the time for it for at least three or four years to come and cannot let it sit that long - it has already sat long enough.

I have all reciepts for what I spent on it to prove that I am actually selling this for below what I have in it. But, one rarely gets out of something what one puts in it. That said, I am setting a STARTING price of $6000.00, but do not be afraid to make me a resonable offer. I want someone to get this and have something for the summer (as I had wanted) and I need to move this baby as soon as I can to lighten my coming load. There is no title for it, but I have the correct bill of sale form.

I take PayPal and can take Mastercard and Visa outright as well through my business. A check would need to be a cashiers check, or money order. Cash, as usual, is always good too.

This is a good deal and a chance to pick up a mostly done and parts already bought project for less than what it would cost someone to buy them outright.

Again, I will consider reasonable offers! Folks interested can call me at the number below. Pictures are attached. Sorry that's all I have of it.

Regards,

Rob (414) 333-9402

laplander@earthlink.net

1969 Triumph Spitfire convertible, yellow with black top and interior. Engine completely rebuilt less than 6,000 miles ago as well as tranny checkup, carb. overhaul, new tires, brakes, windshield, new black carpet set, and new AM/FM CD stereo. Asking $7,000.00 obo. Please contact me at plymouthsavoy54@aol.com for pictures and to see the car.

1954 Plymouth Savoy 4 door sedan. Car is unrestored, but runs well and has a great interior with new clear plastic seat covers. The car has its original Powerflite 2 speed automatic and hydraulic power steering (both rare on a Plymouth in 1954.) The exterior is ok, but the paint is dull and flaky and the rear quarters are bubbling from a prior redo. The car has been on the road for the past six or seven years and has had brakes done and newer wide white walls. Asking $4,500.00 obo. Please contact me at plymouthsavoy54@aol.com for pictures and to see the car.

1926 / 1927 "21 inch split rim" Model T wheels. Dipped and stripped by a pro, then sandblasted and painted. Original wood spokes are bare to leave your finishing options open. Stain, paint, or clear coat to suit your tastes. $250 for the pair.

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Full set of A wheels. Sandblasted and primed, excellent condition. -$400 for the set.

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Last modified: 05/26/09